Cooking Class visits the kitchens of area restaurants, whose chefs share their popular recipes.
Folks who relish the thought of building their own burger may find Burgatory a heaven on earth.
With McCandless the newest of eight locations in the locally owned chain that was launched in 2010, Burgatory appears to have hit on a helluva menu that also features spiked milkshakes and devilish sides.
“Empowering people to customize their burgers — from the protein they want, to the rub, the sauce and the bun — is a huge part of what makes us popular,” says Vince Piconi, executive sous chef for the Burgatory chain. “And our atmosphere is fun. It resonates with all kinds of customers.”
Wall renderings of steers with halos and horns, and witticisms such as “Honor thy mother and thy burger” and “Thou shalt not covet thy neighbor's shake,” advance a theme developed by longtime restaurateurs Mike Hanley and Jerry Dilembo, whose partnership in Burgatory includes Herky Pollock.
Folks can choose from eight proteins, including hormone-free beef, natural bison, grass-fed elk, chicken or plant-based for vegetarians. They get to pick from dozens of spicy rubs, such as Angel Dust or Kona Crust; sauces like bourbon BBQ or sriracha remoulade; and assorted cheeses, toppings and buns. All burgers come with hand-cut russet- and sweet-potato chips.
The menu offers 10 house burgers, including the Meet Your Maker, featuring dry-aged Wagyu beef with sweet onion crust, aged gruyere, roasted tomatoes, organic field greens and truffled shallot aioli; and the Phat Patti's Veggie, a ground cremini mushroom, lentil and cashew burger topped with smoked gouda, baby arugula, tomato and guacamole and served on a whole-wheat bun.
Burgatory's Angus beef burgers average 6 to 8 ounces and are made from a blend of all-natural sirloin, chuck, brisket and short rib, although the ratio of those meats is a secret, Piconi says.
“Jerry and Mike gorged themselves — let's just say they tried a lot of burgers — before they came up with a blend that differentiates us from other places,” he says. “One we're proud of.”
Although burgers are the specialty, Burgatory offers wings and other finger foods, as well as salads and chili.
Piconi joined the original Burgatory in Fox Chapel less than a year after it opened under Brad Kohut, executive chef of the chain. Piconi previously worked at a number of area restaurants, including Cafe Giorgio in Bethel Park, Soba in Shadyside, Kaya in the Strip District, as well as Joe Mama and Fuel and Fuddle in Oakland and two other Hanley-Dilembo eateries.
The bar features rotating draft brews, craft-made co*cktails and milkshakes either classic or spiked with vodka, bourbon and liqueurs.
Deborah Weisberg is a Tribune-Review contributing writer.
Piggy Butter and Jelly Burger
The Piggy Butter and Jelly Burger strikes a balance of sweet and hot.
“The habanero jelly has kick but more sweetness than heat,” says Vince Piconi, executive sous chef for the Burgatory chain, noting the leftover jelly will work with a variety of other dishes, including breakfast toast.
Burgatory uses rubs on all of its burgers because they impart more flavor and give the cook greater control than incorporating spices into the meat, Piconi says. “You can go ample or subtle.”
8-ounce 50-50 Patty (see recipe)
1 ounce Cajun Rub (see recipe)
2 slices white American cheese
3-4 ounce brioche bun
1 ounce peanut butter
1 ounce Habanero Jelly (see recipe)
2 pieces Candied Bacon (see recipe)
4 slices bread-and-butter pickles
Rub the patty with the Cajun Rub. Grill or cook until it reaches 165 degrees on a meat thermometer.
Melt the American cheese on the burger. Toast the bun. Smear the peanut butter on the bottom bun and the Habanero Jelly inside the top bun.
Place the burger on top of the peanut butter. Layer the bacon and pickles and top the burger with the bun.
Makes 1 8-ounce burger.
50-50 Patties
2 pounds bacon
2 pounds ground beef
Grind the bacon in a meat grinder. Mix with the beef in a stand mixer until incorporated. Don't overmix. Portion into 8-ounce patties.
Makes 4 patties.
Candied Bacon
16 pieces of bacon
2⁄3 cup sugar, divided
Oil or nonstick cooking spray
Heat the oven to 300 degrees. Coat a baking rack with pan spray or oil and place on top of baking sheet.
In a bowl, mix the bacon and 1⁄3 cup of the sugar together. Space out the sugared bacon onto the baking rack. Use the remaining sugar to evenly coat the bacon.
Cook for 18 to 20 minutes, turning bacon halfway through. Bacon should be almost crisp. Cool at room temperature for 10 minutes, then serve.
Makes 16 pieces, or 8 servings.
Cajun Rub
5 cups kosher salt
1⁄3 cup crushed garlic
1⁄2 cup paprika
1⁄4 cup cayenne
3 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons onion powder
3 tablespoons dry thyme
3 tablespoons dry oregano
1 1⁄2 teaspoons crushed red pepper
Combine all ingredients. Store in a sealed container.
Makes 2 cups.
Habanero Jelly
1 3⁄4 cups diced red peppers, 1⁄8-inch dice
3⁄4 cup diced green pepper, 1⁄8-inch dice
4 habanero peppers, 1⁄8-inch dice
2 tablespoons pectin
5 cups cider vinegar
5 teaspoons butter
2 1⁄2 cups sugar
5 teaspoons ground ancho powder
5 teaspoons kosher salt
Combine all peppers, pectin and vinegar in saucepan and bring to rolling boil. Add the remaining ingredients and return to a boil. Boil for 1 minute.
Cool in the refrigerator until set. Transfer to a Mason jar or plastic container. Jelly will keep for 3 weeks.
Makes 3 cups.
